Morocco, Africa
Morocco, Africa luxury adventure awaits, Marrakech the Sahara, Fes and Rabat are some of the magical cities to explore.
On a winding road in the High Atlas Mountains between Ourzazate and Marrakech I realized I had to tell of my adventure in the Sahara. These snowy mountains have watched over us since returning from the desert, and red colored foothills loom formidable, while delicate terraced fields glow green along the riverbanks. The balance of life is more pronounced than anything I have ever seen. Morocco is like a jewel lying between the sea and the Sahara.
Berber tradesmen once traveled along the routes between the Imperial cities of Fes, Rabat and Marrakech to Timbuktu. Now they are settled in towns that fringe the dunes and up into the mountains. Herdsmen still roam with their goats, camels and black wool tents following the best grazing land. From atop the grand kasbah Ait Ben Haddou we watched a man and hundreds of goats scramble along the rocky terrain on their daily search for sustenance.
We met our drivers in the town of Erfoud, where we transferred to Range Rovers for an exhilarating hour long sunset ride. Dust spewed out behind our wheels and the other vehicle’s lights glowed and danced around us like fireflies as we made our way to Merzouga. The way is marked on the map as a “regional road track”, starting out roughly paved and turning into imperceptible sand covered tracks. Our turbaned driver knew the way and laughed at our amazement. Seeing that he had a tape deck, we asked if he would play some music. He whipped out a worn cassette, whacked it a few times, blew out the dust and we were in business. The exotic melodies of drums and horns were then interrupted by the ringing of our guide’s cell phone, keeping us in the present.
A bonfire and drums greeted us at the camp. The staff dressed in blue robes and turbans offered dates and goats milk from bronze trays. Two rows of black tents for sleeping formed a courtyard where the fire burned before an area set with carpets, couches, poofs and low tables. Everything sparkled as the full moon lit up the dunes as far as the eye could see. Orion and his pals filled the sky as we dined and drank wine, danced and sang into the night. Then we slept in our Berber tents, keeping warm under thick fleecy blankets, marveling at the shine of sequins reflected in the candlelight.
We awoke to the sound of a lone drum, then the mooing of camels and the calling of drivers. The sun was not up yet, just a faint glow that made the sky a deep titian blue. Warm clothes kept us warm in the chilly Saharan morning, as we sat atop our camels. Mine was a sweet animal, with a beautifully thick curly brown coat, upon long light colored legs. As we walked out into the sand my body found its balance in step with my majestic mode of ancient transportation. The driver was a handsome brown weathery man in a grey chellabah. His pointed hood silhouetted by the sand, as he led us out to greet the sun.
We passed small dunes with sparse, course grasses growing in patches. Deep valleys in the sand sheltered larger clumps of wonderful green desert plants that surprised me with their rare lushness. In the distance a great dune stood over a hundred feet tall. We road on and on enjoying the awe inspiring scenery, when at the foot of the great dune we stopped. By now the movement of my camel seemed second nature, and I leaned back into a standing position as he sat upon the sand. After settling on his great legs a moment I climbed off.
My unnamed guide held out his hand and led me on the steep climb up the gigantic dune. It was a struggle straight up the side. At the point where I thought no way can I make it I looked up, we were so close I could not quit. One more groaning effort, as the smiling desert man pulled my arm, losing his shoes in the shifting sand, and we were up. He retrieved his shoes and we happily sat upon the crest to watch the sun rise. I felt like we sat on the edge of the world, nothing but wind swept sand spread out to what could be infinity. The timelessness was accented as the sun peaked over a distant dune, its bright beams warming our faces and our hearts.
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